Monsters of the Midway

M. Matsumoto Store in Haleiwa, Oahu, is to shave ice what McDonald’s is to burgers. If Matsumoto doesn’t yet have 10 billion served, they might be close. Witness the daily madness for the counter people who man the North Shore landmark:  the line crawls out the front door, snakes westward under the awning and into the parking lot. Thank you sweet baby Jesus for parking lots! — CF

Some years ago, this was a place known only to locals and surfistas who frequented the North Shore during the winter surf season.  It was a quiet, unassuming place – Haleiwa, that is – with a two-lane road through town, and a few shops that gave the place a certain ambience.  It took some doing to get to Haleiwa before the H2 freeway extension, but it could be done, and the reward for travelers was a great shave ice and a new secret spot.

Well, that secret is now obliterated, much like the chance of lifetime employment for a loyal employees. It’s sooo not secret anymore that Matsumoto has lost its cool on the island. The proprietors are trying, though. They continue to produce a very nice shave ice with a variety of flavors, with good prices. They make nice t-shirts that harken back to the Matsumoto-When-It-Was-Cool days during the 60s, 70s and 80s. Of course it continues to be cool on the Mainland, mostly because of popular culture references (see the 2004 film, 50 First Dates, starring Adam Sandler). Locals now look to Matsumoto with a sense of awe, and perhaps a bit of jealousy, about a local shop that — sniff — went the way of tourists.

Adam Sandler among the celebrities that have eaten at Matsumoto.

Matsumoto has spawned legions of fans, for good reason, and plenty imitators. Aoki shave ice, which is a stone’s throw from Matsumoto, and makes a really good shave ice itself, is like a remora riding the back of a shark, waiting for leftovers. More on Aoki later.

Anyhow, let’s get to the brass tacks:  Matsumoto has a great many flavors and created many island favorites themselves. The ice is fine, and not too crunchy or too soft, and the syrups have nice flavor without being too sugary. You get a very nice shave ice here. Well worth the wait if you’re not averse to crowds. A little hint:  go early, eat often.

You can visit their web site, where you can buy t-shirts and other souvenirs. The proprietors estimate that they serve 1,000 shave ice a day — and they probably do!

Rating:  3 Cones

M. Matsumoto Store

66-087  Kamehameha Highway

Haleiwa, HI  96712